Sunday, January 31, 2010

San Antonio

Miles: 5264.3
Gallons Burned: 177.24
Caffeinated Drinks: 33

I entered New Orleans Last night around 6pm traveling from Avery Island, LA. I met up with a retired Naval Nuclear Technician and we talked in Bayou Segnette State Park's free laundry pavilion.
As I conduct a review of my trip' technical elements I notice three challenges thus far: Weather Proofing (dampness of all my gear is getting rather ridiculous), Fuel (each time I fill up about 1 cup of Gasoline leaks from a fitting between the port and the tank, and Windshield (a 6 inch crack inspired by a golf ball sized rock, thrown from a big rig, has matured into a 13 inch long python).

Well lets talk about San Antonio:

I pulled into town at about 7:15pm and stayed with Larry and Gale's daughter CJ and her husband Roger. Their 2 kids Josh and Caleb were great. They showed me amazing hospitality and were kind in every possible way. I am ashamed to say that I neglected to take their picture so I cannot share them fully with you all.
Upon their recommendation, I went into downtown San Antonio on the 28th and saw the Alamo Mission and the River walk.
The Alamo is the quintessential Texas site. The place where men were men and died as men. Prior to the famous battle the soldiers voted (they were not ordered) to fortify the Spanish Mission and stay to defend it instead of withdrawing. They new that there was no hope if the Mexican Army attacked and yet they chose to stay.




In summer the sun beats down on San Antonio and walking around is terribly uncomfortable. So what the city did was to create an oasis in the city the River Walk.
After parking, I walked West following the signs to the River Walk. I just sort of ran into it. Even half a block away there is no evidence of the RW. Only when you come to the bridge and look down do you see it. about 20 feet below street level is the base of this urban canyon:

There are boat tours and more than a dozen pedestrian arches flanking the walk. I hobbled all the way up one side and back the other taking pictures with many thanks to the guy who synthesized acetylsalicylic acid.



And I had to take a picture of the local fauna (notice the unusual "antlers" atop their heads) :

I wouldn't like to live in San Antonio (not enough cloud cover for me) yet I would love to come back again and eat at one of the open air cafes in the heat of summer next to the cool river.

Thursday, January 28, 2010

South to Van Horn TX

Miles: 4482.5
Gallons Burned: 148.26
Caffeinated Drinks: 31

I left ABQ with fond memories and headed south toward Las Cruses and El Paso. My trip dossier told me to stop at Trinity.

A brief digression:
Trinity was the site of the single-most exceptional scientific even up to 16 July 1945. In the desert, sand was turned to glass (chemical name Trinitite) and windows shook 100 miles away. When the event occurred the man in charge, Dr. Oppenheimer, was reminded of the famous passage from the Bhagavad Gita, "Now I am become Death, the destroyer of worlds."
I wanted to go to this place. It is very remote and located on a military missile range.
I don't have a specific reason why, but it is the place where the paradigm of the entire world shifted from comprehensible war and destruction to a brave new world where extinction of humanity is possible. The site is not well-marked and sits as a relic, a deep scar in the Earth...
Upon reaching that site I anticipated feeling one of these six reactions:
1) Amazement at Mankind's creative ability
2) Terror at Mankind's hubris
3) Fear of assured mutual destruction
4) Hope of a world without the need for such weapons
5) Hope of the world to come where death isn't one "international incident" away
6) Pessimism about Mankind's future on Earth, yearning toward space as the only escape

What would you feel standing on the "kadosh" Earth where the first nuclear weapon detonated?
Feel free to comment.


Long story short, the military police officer that met me at the gate explained that the White Sands Missile Complex and Proving Grounds (actual name) was undergoing "Active Tests and Sorties" on Monday the 25th. I never found out what I would feel. I never held that sand in my hand and thought that from dust I came and to dust I will return.
Well in a distant and theoretical way, I have.

The rest of the day progressed without event. I topped up every time my tank fell below 3/4 on the long dead stretch between El Paso and San Antonio. When I reached Van Horn TX I pulled into a sleepy campground and slept under this tree:

Albuquerque - Where the sun Lives

Miles: 4482.5
Gallons Burned: 148.26
Caffeinated Drinks: 31

So I found out where "the sun lives" (Qtd. Dr. Bill Clem). It occasionally visits Seattle for at most 6 weeks a year, but it has a home, Albuquerque.
About 6 weeks ago, I emailed Pastor AJ over at ABQ and he and others facilitated Julio and Ophelia's hosting of this wayfaring stranger (Johnny Cash you are so awesome). This couple and their kids taught me a bunch about how to organize and architect a home and life to raise kids and serve others.
The video only campus (the 9th of my church) is on old Hwy 66 in the heart of ABQ and is a great example of redemption and urban renewal.

Notice how the balcony doesn't have any stairs descending to the lower section? That's because this theater was originally segregated with "coloreds" like me sitting up away from the main audience. More recently it was a run-down porno house until a church poured love and some cash into it.

The historic theater was an exceptional place to see this special message about Haiti and the bloody aftermath of the devastating quake.

WARNING:Due to blood and gore not appropriate for all audiences.

I was so loved by the people in ABQ, and they went far out of their way to show me grace. Thanks Mike I loved reminiscing about Seattle with you. Roxy and Brandon, I really look forward to showing off Seattle when you come to town. Thank you to all the others who were so kind.
I was there on the Sunday that MHABQ launched the official usher group. I had the privilege of bringing what I have learned over at Ballard (Thanks to Haden, Brandon A., Jake, and Tim for pouring into me) to my friends in ABQ, and I hope that their group will serve with distinction.

Clips from "The Pass"

Miles: 4482.5
Gallons Burned: 148.26
Caffeinated Drinks: 31

I watched Edward Scissorhands for the first time last night here in Galveston TX. It was pretty good and I loved the pastel view of suburban America. All in all, it missed a compelling ideology (other than the condemnation of a mob mentality and Conservatism - rather expected) and a true exploration of Depp's character's humanity.

I was digging through my pictures/videos, and I found these clips from the fabled "Mountain Pass". Please enjoy:




Honestly the canyon/valley I stayed in was like something out of the Lord of the Rings.

Tuesday, January 26, 2010

Long days and Not-so-Plesant Nights

Miles: 4134.2
Gallons Burned: 135.1
Caffeinated Drinks: 29

I'm here in San Antonio TX with Roger and CJ and their great kids Joshua and Caleb.
A quick note, I have been nursing a nagging injury to my right leg for 4 days now. My Soleus Muscle in my right calf has been hurting so if you guys could keep me in your thoughts and prayers, I'd be hugely appreciative. Julio thanks for the bottle of aspirin! Roger gave me some IcyHot, and if that doesn't work, I'll get some medical advice.

So now my latest brush with excitement...
I awoke to about 6 inches of fresh snow my last morning in Joshua Tree NP and this hungry coyote.

My original trip plan included a stop near Wilhoit AZ with Beverly and Jim but many towns like Wenden AZ were buried under water and mud. So under the wise council of Beverly I chose to not head to Wilhoit but rather detour South. The goal was to avoid all the Snow and flooding; well at least I avoided the flooding. Unfortunately I relied on my GPS unit to calculate a detour. It was less than successful. The two day trip:

View Stuck on a Mountian Pass 1/22/10 in a larger map
The road to Phoenix was mildly ominous as the side of I-10 was lined with 30 foot trees that had been pulled up by the roots. Once in Phoenix, the only hassle was some light traffic. The GPS told me to take SR-60 East to Show Low AZ. It did not mention the mountain passes. In case you wondered, the name of that stretch of road is "the Superstitious Highway".
I made it over a low pass and entered the sunny town of Miami AZ only problem was it was actually snowing. Snowing quite heavily. The roads were bare and wet inspiring confidence in my choice to go on, as daylight faded to black and the longest night of my life began.
Um so a typical author or poster...No scratch that, let's go with "spammer" would follow this ominous sentence with a tale of terror, suspense, excitement, or inspiration. I will instead show you a seasonally appropriate captioned picture of a silly cat!

Source.
Back to the story, I continued east passing several signs warning "Drive with caution Extreme Winter Conditions". I watched my GPS's altimeter tick from 3,000 feet to 5,000 feet in the course of 15 minutes as the visibility halved and then halved again. I passed two State Troopers assisting a U-Haul in the ditch, their lights fading in the rear-view mirror like memories of daylight.
At this point, I was concerned. My speed was a cautious 20 MPH, my horizon only 40 yards, and my tank down to 5 gallons. Four-wheel drive trucks and SUVs passed doing 50 and I shook my head in envy and disgust. I pressed on as a Snow plow blazed a short-lived trail of good traction for oncoming vehicles. I thought, "The plows are out how bad could it be?"
As my altimeter reached 5,300 I noticed the road pitch tenuously downward. The Colorado River canyon switchbacks began. By the second sharp bend my visibility was at 100 yards and the snow was a mere dusting with none on the road. The time was 8:40pm.
At the bottom of the canyon, the river roared so loudly it was clearly audible over the engine and Decemberists. At 3,200 feet I felt exultant my GPS showed a straight road ahead and the snow had completely stopped. I said a silent prayer of thanks and drove past an RV stopped in a pullout. I immediately noticed that the road slopped upward. The road was soon covered with snow and visibility was down to 20 yards. I slowed my progress to a crawl. I decided to slip into a pull off and wait for a snow plow to wander by so I could drive behind him. I got stuck. The wheels spun to no avail and I was left immobilized in the dark. Right then, the snow plow roared by. Twenty minutes of effort yielded 10 feet of progress toward the road, soaked boots, soaked gloves, and soaked pants. Then an SUV drove by. It stopped (probably to see the spectacle of the stupid guy from Washington "playing" in the snow). Three guys jumped out and helped me get unstuck. In the twenty minutes that had passed the snow plow's trail was filled with 4 fresh inches of snow. So I decided that since things weren't getting better, I was going back the way I came over the mountain pass I had already crossed. On my way back everything looked different. The previously bare road was caked in 5 new inches of snow, the RV was frosted and the formerly clear switchbacks were now practically a bobsled run. Another snow plow must have come through recently because the oncoming lane looked less snow covered than my lane, so I used it. My knuckles were not figuratively white as I climbed the perilous road and turned up the music to hide the sound of my heart in my ears. I clung to the steering wheel like a drowning man would a life saver; my eyes intent on the blind corners searching for oncoming headlights. I stopped next to a jack knifed tractor-trailer and asked the driver if he was okay. He was, and asked if I had any cell coverage. I didn't, so I drove on. There was so much snow. Falling, swirling, waiting for me like quicksand.
On a fresh switchback, I felt the right side of the car lose traction, so I counter-steered left, but then the left side lost purchase too. I went into a slow 90 degree spin as the car's momentum drove uphill. I went sideways, headlights to the rocky mountain wall. instead of breaking I tapped the accelerator and the left front tire caught traction forcing the car into a sharp 180 degree counter-spin. The windshield's view went from a charming view of a rocky facade to the empty space of the canyon. As the car's momentum carried it uphill, I saw the cliff's edge approach. I tapped the brakes with religious fervor not thinking, not feeling, yet understanding. I stopped 12 inches from the edge.
I am sideways on a steep, snow-covered, two lane road, at night, but not dead.
I won't tell you how I got the car pointed down hill, but I did. After failing to escape my white prison I headed down to where I had seen the RV to wait things out.
I slept (no sleep actually occurred I am just using the euphemism) in my car for the fourth consecutive night, ate an MRE, and got very cold (using the car's heater was out because I needed to conserve gas). The trooper who showed up after midnight said that it was best for me to stay put, but warned that the snow was not stopping until 8pm the next night. Fortunately he was wrong. My mind drifted as I tried to force sleep but, none was possible. I felt on edge, being cut off in the dark. My predicament (or maybe the hydrogen gas from the MRE heater) somehow made my meal hilarious, so I took this pic of a MRE's label: "Don't eat the chemical heater?!"

The next morning I manned-up and got out of that beautiful but dangerous canyon:


I learned that I really thrive in adventure even if cliffs and sudden death is involved. I wonder how I would fare in a real catastrophe (like Haiti) not just an uncomfortable night on the road.

Monday, January 25, 2010

Joshua's Joshua Tree

Miles: 3683.2
Gallons Burned: 118.8
Caffeinated Drinks: 28

I'm here in Van Horn TX near a KOA campground enjoying my first precipitation free camp in more than two weeks. Winter is a fun season...more on that later

My 6 (single-spaced) page and counting trip dossier originally called for a stop in the Grand Canyon, but due to three back-to-back snow storms, the fissure is buried. So I diverted to Joshua Tree National Park.

My campground as seen from 3 miles away and 4,000 feet up on Ryan Mountain.


Up on Ryan Mt. Joshua Trees were scarce, but these little ones were a charming hazard that looked strangely appetizing when the snow came.

As I was stacking stones to form this Cairn the first flakes of the storm began. At 5,500ft there was snow. But when I returned to Earth the rain was gaining momentum.
The first night was so windy that my cook stove went out 7 times before I gave up on a warm diner and ate cold chili. Enjoying the hilarity was a 20 pound bobcat who begged until I spooked him/her. Then the rain intensified. That was the first of 4 nights spent in the car.
The next day I switched sites to lucky 13 with some stoners who wanted to split the cost of their site.
After the second night in my car, I found my tent destroyed in the high winds of the prior night's storm. So I walked about and met some college kids who were down in California's desert to rock climb. They had been there 3 days and only hit rock once. I suggested that we roll over to town 20 miles away and grab some lunch. The drive was really...wet:

I bought them lunch and we spoke of the Midwest where they hail from.

Hey Jeremiah and Catie! Maybe I'll see you both when I swing through Michigan!
When I got back the snow stared in earnest, and this is what Ryan Mountain looked like that night:


I've always wanted to wield a flare in snow. No particular reason why. Just the idea of carrying a 3,000 degree torch that will burn through nearly anything and never go out regardless of weather appeals to my sensibilities.
On the way out, I had to go retro:

Next time I'll tell the tale of the night I spun out in heavy snow at 5,000 feet almost nose diving into the mighty Colorado River...

City of Angles and a Keyed Car

Miles: 3142
Gallons Burned: 100.5
Caffeinated Drinks: 27

Mars Hill ABQ has been great, and I totally dig the people of Albuquerque. I have met amazing men and women in this diverse and engaging city.

Now let me tell you a little story of a wanderer in West Hollywood...
What comes to mind when you think of West Hollywood(called Wee-Ho by locals)?
I got to experience some incredible events, people, and locations thanks to my buddy Phil.

He led me on a tour of Hollywood, Beverly Hills, and the Beaches south of Malibu.
He showed off the interesting and awesomely peculiar people of Santa Monica Beach/Pier and Venice Beach. Here is an shot of the Santa Monica pier from below:

Phil and I went to Riverside to see Sam, Lili, and Andrew. We burst into Sam's lab and as usual couldn't startle her. I also ruined the surprise for Lili by letting Phil's visit slip over the phone.
We enjoyed Settlers of Catan and great palaver.
When I ran Phil back to "WeHo", he invited me to his gym, a Gold's. My first full-gym workout in 8 month was awesome. I even was awkwardly invited to a wrestling gym by two sketchy guys. Everyone was very fit at the gym, so my sense of pride was glad that I have been faithful in my 200-50 daily workout.

Honestly this hour-and-a-half workout was an memorable life experience. I was not uncomfortable, how often do you get to work out in a culture like this?
Of course I forgot my Driver License there...so I drove back to Riverside illegally.
The next day I drove Sam and Lili to the La Brea tar pits where bones dating back 30,000 years are being salvaged every day.
I managed to lock the keys in Sam's car and waste 90 minutes of our time until the lock specialist's 90 seconds of work loosed the mocking metal.

Only when we returned to Riverside (after I decided that my trips to LA were concluded) did I notice my ID's absence.
Jonathan (my dear friend from Garfield High) and his gracious fiancee Madeline visited me in Riverside, and we enjoyed the game Dominion and great stories.

The next day I drove out to San Onofre State Park next to Camp Pendleton. The day at the beach was anything but. Constant high winds and driving rain soaked me and my valiant compatriots to the bone. Still there were nice Pacific Pelicans:

Finally revelation struck that night as to where my ID was. When I took my leave I made the 3 hour detour back to WeHo to get it.

Saturday, January 23, 2010

Miles: 3124
Gallons Burned: 100
Caffeinated Drinks: 25

I made it to Albuquerque NM against all odds and alive. The widow maker that hit California turned into a very heavy snowstorm in AZ and my GPS tried to kill me by sending me down HWY 60 LINK. I just stopped here last night and slept. Note the 6500ft pass to the northeast and the 6000ft pass to the southwest. The heavy snow made either passage impossible but the night was relatively warm so I was comfortable. The trooper who showed up said my choice to stay put was wise, however I contend my single-minded determination to go forward was as Erasmus would say a "praise of folly".

Anyway, I am in New Mexico sitting in a coffee shop so life is good even when life's transience shows through.
Now pics of the ABQ campus of my church:


In case you are wondering "LOBOS" is the mascot of the nearby U of New Mexico

Friday, January 22, 2010

Quick Word from Joshua Tree

Miles: 2370
Gallons Burned: ~81
Caffeinated Drinks: 20

My second Attempt at a V-LOG:

Tales of California's Central Coast

Miles: 2331.9
Gallons Burned: ~80
Caffinated Drinks: 19
Since the weather still sticks how about I tell the tale of my passing from San Jose to West Hollywood.

I stopped in Salinas to see the Steinbeck Museum:



I have only read one of Steinbeck's books East of Eden, a book close to my heart. I loved the concept of timsel (the hebrew script carved in the tablet). I also learned of his book where he chronicled his journey around the US with his dog Charlie. My own trip is inspired by two sources (see links), but surely if had read Steinbeck's work I certainly would have found a third source. I will find this book and learn from his wisdom.

Then I drove South on CA 1/101 where through rain and occasional sun:


One of the MOST fun signs I have seen thus far.

The Bixby Bridge, one of the numerous bridges on the rugged coast.

As I drove by I thought, "Huh those beach rocks are really smooth." I put 2 and 2 together and turned around to see this great sight:


Elephant seals in case you were curious.

Next was Hearst Castle:



The dining room where in the midst of silver, ivory, and ebony the guests would eat on paper plates.

That night I arrived in West Hollywood where I met Phil for the first time in nearly 3 years.
Until next time...

Tales of California's North Coast

Miles: 2331.9
Gallons Burned: ~80
Caffeinated Drinks: 18

Right now I am sitting in my car in Joshua Tree National Park...in Snow. That's right this place boasts 350 days each year of sun. So of course I came during the 1 day each decade it snows!!!?! Seriously, I'm having a blast. I am enjoying J.R.R. Tolkien's Silmarillion audio book (thanks Mora & Eric), so I apologize in advance if some Chaucer-esque verbiage escapes into my posts. The original plan called for me to be at the Grand Canyon today, but due to three winter storms that have dumped nearly 2 feet of snow there, I detoured South to experience the flooded and frozen deep desert.

As I sit in the ice and snow powering my netbook via a power inverter, how about I tell you the story of my time in San Francisco:




I took public transportation to ford the 65 miles betwixt SJ and SF.

The City's skyline from the Oakland Bridge Westward.

I really like this bridge. It beats the Golden Gate hands down.

I walked the entire waterfront from baseball great Mays' statue at Giants' Park to the Presidio. Then up the hills to Lombard Street:


This Windows Movie Maker video is a compilation of 58 still photos taken from the top of the world's crooked street to the base. It is my first attempt at a Movie Maker project, so feel free to leave feedback.

Thursday, January 14, 2010

Stories of the Oregon and Northern California Coast

Miles Clocked: 1738
Gallons Burned: ~40ish
Caffeinated Drinks: 11

Sorry to get so behind on posts, but things have been somewhat hectic (in a good way) here in California. The CA stories will be for another post on the blog.

It was a dark and stormy night...a shot rang out...a womans screamed...
Oh wait...this is a Blogspot post not a Edward Bulwer-Lytton novel. Anyway how about I show you a picture and then some of my recollections about it.
Story 1:

I had done some research on places to stay and Seal Rock seemed great. Not so much, because all the seals are in CA this time of year. But still I walked the beach, got some time in solitude, enjoyed the surf, and God's quiet voice whispering in the wind (totally ripped off phrase from somewhere). Shout out to who every came up with time delay photography.
Story 2:

This video shows the ferocity of the "Devils Churn." Huge white waves on this calm and windless day beat mercilessly on a channel of volcanic rock black as Hades. The good beating back evil.
Story 3:

Cannon Beach (as seen in the Goonies) was a nice get away along the highway. The cloudy and windy day meant I was essentially alone on the beach, more great solitude. Part of this trip's purpose is the pursuit of a more humble and deferential approach to my life. For this reason I have been reading about King Solomon. Anyways, in the background you can see the giant Monolith. At its base I face planted on sharp volcanic rocks into ocean water and tore up my knee a bit. (It's fine after two days of icing and wrapping) Humiliation...yep I had to limp back to the car soaking wet and embarrassed.
Story 4,5,...,Aleph-naught:

So the next night, my knee is hurting and I am tired (it seems sleep comes with difficulty on the road). With only 10 hours of daylight and so many sights to see, I am a little behind on my original trip ending point for the day (100 miles short). So the sun has set and I see a sign for "Redwood National Park". Yes! The campground is closed for the season. No! but what joy I see! The rangers left a note recommending Prairie Creek campgrounds only 22 miles away. I am a little frustrated with myself due to my poor pacing and unfortunate luck. Oh did I mention I'm at a quarter tank (about 80 mile of motion left). So I drive down Hwy 101 and exit 20 gas station-free miles later at Prairie Creek National Park looking for the camp grounds. I swear to God they actually demanded the exorbitant fee of $43 to stay the night at their "tent's only off-season sites." If any of you know me even casually, then you know: I ride the bus, I ride a 50cc scooter, and I eat out at Vietnamese Pho houses (because I am "frugal"...no I am cheap when I am alone). So this bargain minded adventurer shakes the metaphorical dust off his shoes and leaves in search of a better deal. I get back on 101 and head 10 more gas station-free miles south to Prairie Creek State Park because the park sign has a tent symbol on it. Thinking back, in the darkness I easily could have mistaken the tent symbol for the equally common tent with-a-line-through-it-symbol. So pleased with my ability to save some money, I head into this deserted park. But as providence would have it I was NOT alone.
I feel like a second paragraph is called for. I drive into the darkness on a freshly paved road that is immaculate with fresh stripping and brand new reflectors. The GPS shows I'm in a state park, so I am confident everything is going well. I drive deeper noticing that there are no helpful brown state park signs. Fog banks appear and disappear as I drive reducing visibility to 20 yards. Suddenly the road's slick new surface ends, and I find myself on a graded and compacted dirt road that breaks into ancient paving every 200 yards or so. I feel the trees closing in around me in the mid-night starless black of the foggy forest. I slow my car's progress to a hesitant trot. My mind is not playing tricks, the road is perceptibly narrowing. I get a bad feeling in my gut. A glace to my cell phone tells me that it is fully charged...but has no service. I am alone. I am tired. I am very low on gas. I am out of contact. I am hurt. I am starting to freak myself out. But I am in a state park. So I am still okay. I say aloud "You know the best campgrounds are often at the end of old logging roads deep in the woods." My voice echoes hollowly back at me in the empty car.

What would you be feeling if you were in my shoes at that moment? Cool confidence? Fear? What would you do? Turn around? Press on into the unknown?

Now about the picture...
So after what could have been as few as 10 or as many at 30 minutes of slow wandering down this dirt track I see this sign. "Warning State Prison", through the trees I can see faint light; they are flash lights. So my last thread of safety, security, and let's be frank hope snaps. I am cut off. I learned a lot about myself and my pride that night. When hope is ripped away I do 3 things: laugh, get out of my "safe" car to take a picture (I am a photographer after all), and pray. I guess my prayer was answered because I eventually got out of the alleged state park, found a rural propane operated gasoline pump on a country road, and got to tiny 10 campsite campground where I ate cold hot dogs and slept in my car.

I whipped this post up after driving back to Riverside CA following a work out at Gold's Gym in West Hollywood (Thanks Phil). For the record, this was intended to be an uplifting set of stories with an evidence of grace at the end, but I am not sure if that's how it will come across.
Chow for Now.

Sunday, January 10, 2010

Discourse on Gear

Miles Clocked: 1147
Gallons Burned: ~33
Caffeinated Drinks: 8

Well today has been great I got to hit up an auto show in San Jose and enjoy time with my cousin Dave. Here are a few of the highlights including my "dream" car (to be purchased used in 2020):





I also spent time retinking my "cockpit organization" and "gear ergonomics" to increase comfort/safety while driving. To let you all share in my strange pursuit here are the pieces of E-Gear whose placement have been optimized: